Four Million Pots
Once a year, millions of women from all ages and socioeconomic backgrounds leave their homes around Kerala and journey to a Hindu temple near the southern tip of India for a 10-day festival devoted to the goddess, Attukal Amma. On the penultimate day, these women—at the very same moment—place millions of clay pots over millions of makeshift hearths, light millions of fires, andcook pongala, a sweet coconut rice porridge, an offering of food to the gods, consumed by the devout after worship—and it’s one of the most ancient alms in Hinduism. SAVEUR’s Special Projects Editor, Leslie Pariseau, reports.
You’re Gonna Need a Bigger Pan
Paella is at its best cooked at home, made with traditional, shortcut-free technique and served the moment its ready to an appreciative crowd. “Nothing in Spanish cooking compares to carrying a massive pan of golden-brown rice out to the table, or the pleasures of digging into one,” writes Jeff Koehler. “And while paella has a lot of details to sweat and rules to follow, the most important is simple: There is no such thing as a version for just one person.” Here are five more rules for better paella: Use bone-in meats and whole shrimp and prawns; Wait until all of your guests arrive before adding the rice; Don’t stir; Rest the dish; and Serve from the pan.
“What is it about traveling that inspires us to become other people?” asks SAVEUR’s Deputy Editor Andrew Richdale. With this in mind, Richdale (SAVEUR’s resident Scandiphile), eats and drinks his way through Copenhagen wondering what it would take for an American guy to actually transform into a Dane (there’s more to it than eating smørrebrød, cultivating hygge, and riding bicycles)?
From blood cockles to kangaroo grass, Bruce Pascoe, a descendant of the Bunurong people, cultivates Australia’s most ancient foods to help its people rediscover their true culinary heritage. “Australia has only recently come to recognize the debt owed to its First Peoples, after nearly two and a half centuries of abuses and land seizures,” writes SAVEUR contributor Shane Mitchell. “To Pascoe, food and agriculture are tied to acknowledging sovereignty, and may also create a pathway to reparation for an ages-old culture that thinks of land in metaphysical terms, not as mere real estate.”