New York, NY — A Living Larder: When Cortney Burns moved east from San Francisco to build a restaurant in the Massachusetts woods, she brought along the key building blocks of complex flavor: a pantry full of funky, fermenting things. “The idea that all of this is simple—the foraging, the preserving, the larder filled with endless ferments—is key to understanding Burns and her food,” writes Gabe Ulla. “These aren’t chef-y indulgences; they’re the only way she can imagine making food, a source of comfort as she builds something in a new place.”
Chicago Is a City Divided by Barbecue: Writer Kevin Pang explores the regional barbecue and signature smoking style of Chicago’s South Side arguing that the pork rib tips and hot links smoked in aquarium smokers are integral to the Chicago experience, but half the city doesn’t know about it. “As a generation of pitmasters passes on, the specter of Chicago South Side barbecue fading into the culinary hereafter is sadly a real possibility. As much as there’s a lack of patronage from more prosperous North Side customers, the larger reason is that few young people are interested in taking over,” laments Pang. “The handful of South Side pitmasters fighting to preserve the tradition believe they can win over the uninitiated. They believe that they, with people like Garry Kennebrew, can do for Chicago’s South Side what Arthur Bryant did in Kansas City and Rodney Scott did in Charleston. First they need people to know it exists.”
There’s No Feta in Crete: “Ask anyone here any they’ll tell you, sometimes bitterly, sometimes with a laugh: There’s no feta in Crete because they’re not allowed to call it that,” writes SAVEUR’s Kathryn Whittaker. “Feta is covered by a Protected Designation of Origin by the European Union, meaning its production is strictly regulated and limited to specific regions in Greece. Instead, Cretans make ‘white cheese,’ which is made exactly the same way and looks and tastes the same as feta.” Whittaker travels to this island of lost cheeses to learn the old way of making cheese from a band of shepherds and farmers who are resisting industrialization to keep the traditions alive.
PLUS: Drinking Sherry in Jerez; The Rebellious Life of Israel’s Erez Komarovsky, Wine-Braised Duck from Gascony; Sharpening Knives by Bicycle; One of Appalachia’s Last Communal Canneries; Noodles in Suzhou; and More!
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