Food Doesn’t Care About Borders

There and Back (page 82)
Shaun Pett shares the stories of five friends and restaurant owners who all have similar experiences of border crossings and deportations. After living in Philadelphia for years, this group of Mexican cooks and restaurant workers returned home to Puebla, where they are now infusing new life into their village’s culinary scene. 

Nothing Gold (page 48)
A sleepy city on the South China Sea ruled by the Portuguese until 1999, Macau has become a glitzy playground for China’s ultrawealthy. Kevin Pang explores the pockets between the casino resorts, where traces of its hybrid culinary history remain. 

The Last Lebanese Steakhouse in Tulsa (page 66)
Oklahoma’s capital was once a hub for Lebanese immigrants, and a century later, at Jamil’s, a restaurant where rib-eyes and smoked pork ribs come with sides of tabbouleh and hummus, the particular rituals of an Oklahoma tradition endure. Naomi Tomky reports from Tulsa, where the last of the Lebanese steakhouses remain.

Around the Fire (page 58)
London’s Little Istanbul stretches through the boroughs of Hackney and Harringay, and has some of the city’s best food. With kebabs, stuffed eggplants, and zucchini fritters, London’s Turkish grill houses stand out as some of the most culturally harmonious and unifying places in the country, where people congregate over their love for food. Yasmin Khan sets out to discover Britain at its best. 

The Middlemen (page 74)
Tanzanian cocoa growers have long been at the mercy of itinerant buyers paying low prices despite the steep costs of growing. But a well-meaning company has created a supply chain that’s better for the farms—and makes for better chocolate. Hilary Heuler reports.

At the Bayou’s Edge (page 90)
Every day, rising waters cause more than 20 acres of land in southern Louisiana to disappear into the sea. But the local Vietnamese shrimping community—who depend on harvesting these waters—continues to adapt. Allie Wist visits New Orleans to meet the shrimpers who are standing their ground in the face of climate change.

PLUS: The Story of Real Pad Thai; Making the Perfect Pozole; Cannoli Secrets; Stuffed Parathas; Amman’s Booza Boom; and More!